These yellowish to orange beetles love to chew holes in green beans, peas and corn.  They have 4 spots on their wings and a black triangle at the top of their wing covers.  Bean leaf beetle numbers can be reduced with good garden sanitation and planting green beans later in May to avoid the overwintering adults emerging in the spring.  Here are some links from K-State Research and Extension and Missouri Botanical Garden with more information about bean leaf beetles.
​
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Bean%20Leaf%20Beetle.pdf
​
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/beetles/bean-leaf-beetle.aspx

Cucumber beetles can be either spotted or striped.  They like to feed at the base of newly emerged cucumber, melon, squash, pumpkin and other crops.  The actual damage to most plants doesn’t come from the adults feeding on the leaves.  The real damage is from a bacterial wilt that the beetles transmit plant to plant while feeding.  The bacteria reproduces and eventually the plant wilts and dies.  There is no cure for bacterial wilt, but some varieties have more tolerance to bacterial wilt.  Early control of cucumber beetles is key in reducing the opportunity of having bacterial wilt.  If you do plan to spray to control beetles, keep in mind that the bees are around to pollinate.  Spray early in the morning or later in the evening when they are not as active around plants.  “Eight” or permethrin is a much friendlier bee option than “Sevin” or carbaryl.  Here are links from K-State Research and Extension with detailed information about cucumber beetles and bacterial wilt.  

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Cucumber%20Beetles.pdf

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Bacterial%20Wilt.pdf

This is the adult squash vine borer that lays it’s eggs at the base of your favorite summer and winter squash, zucchini, pumpkins and gourd plants.  They hatch and eat their way inside the plant's stem where they are protected from predators.  They live there for several weeks until they get large enough and do enough damage.  Then one day your plant collapses and you are shocked.  Preventative measures are needed where SVB is present to protect your squash crop.  Here’s a link from K-State Research and Extension with detailed information about Squash Vine Borer.  If you do preventative spraying at the base of the plant, Eight (permethrin) would be what I’d recommend.

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Squash%20Vine%20Borer.pdf 

Here is another link for those who want to follow strictly organic practices.  https://articles.extension.org/pages/65684/biology-and-management-of-squash-vine-borer-in-organic-farming-systems
​
Note, scouting for the eggs regularly will be critical to your success.   

Two diseases that attack tomatoes early in the growing season around blossom set are Early Blight and Septoria.  Both start on lower leaves of the plant and result in leaf spots that may eventually kill the leaf. Defoliation of the plant is harmful and also leads to sunscalded fruit.  Disease development is favored by warm temperatures, abundant rainfall and high humidity.  We’ve had perfect conditions for both diseases, and I am seeing them on some of your tomatoes.  Mulching, caging, no overhead watering and good air flow are helpful to reduce disease pressures. To learn more about these early tomato diseases, here are articles from K-State Research and Extension, University of Minnesota, and Missouri Botanical Garden.

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Early%20Blight%20of%20Tomatoes.pdf

https://extension.umn.edu/diseases/early-blight-tomato

​http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/fungal-spots/septoria-leaf-spot-of-tomato.aspx

Harlequin bugs are orangeish-red and black mottled insects that can do a lot of damage on cole crops, tomatoes and potatoes when in high numbers.  They feed on the plant sap, causing stippling of leaves and distortions in the heads of cabbage and brussels sprouts.  Their eggs are very interesting.  They lay a group of 6 barrel shaped black and white eggs on the underside of leaves.   Here are some links from University of Maryland Extension and K-State Research and Extension.

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/harlequin-bug-vegetables
​
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Harlequin%20Bug.pdf

Aphids attack a multitude of plants in all stages of plant growth.  They are small, pear shaped and come in a variety of colors.  They are recognized by the 2 tubelike structures at the end of their body called cornicles.  Aphids feed by using their mouthparts to suck plant juices out of leaves and fruit.  They secrete a sticky substance called honeydew that ants love.  Sometimes ants farm aphids, moving them around.  Generally, natural enemies of aphids keep them in check.  However, if you have sprayed an indiscriminate insecticide, the lady beetles, syrphid fly larvae, aphid lions and small wasp parasites known as braconids will also be killed and an aphid population can increase exponentially.   A strong stream of water will knock most aphids off the plant and in doing so break off the mouthparts so they can’t eat anymore.  For more information on aphids, here is a link from K-State Research and Extension.
 
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Aphids.pdf
​

The Colorado potato beetle is generally found on potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant and other solanaceous family plants.  Adults become active in May and lay eggs on the underneath side of leaves.  Damage to crops when populations are high, especially in the 2 week time frame of potato flowering, can be significant.  If you have a few plants, the best thing to do is scout them closely and handpick any eggs or insects.  For more information about Colorado Potato Beetles, here are links from K-State Research and Extension and University of Minnesota Extension.
​
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Colorado%20Potato%20beetle.pdf

https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/colorado-potato-beetles

If you grow any cole crops—cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower or kale—you know that little green worms can wreak havoc on your plants.  Early scouting and control are key to managing the pest.  If you see the brown or white butterly flying around your plants, they are looking for places to lay eggs and you will have worms eating your cruciferous vegetables soon.  Here are links from K-State Research and Extension with detailed information about the cabbage looper and imported cabbageworm.

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Cabbage%20Looper.pdf

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Imported%20Cabbageworm.pdf

White clover is generally considered more of a turf weed than a garden weed.  However, you may have some if your garden area was once a low maintenance turf area.  White clover is a legume which means that it along with other bean family members fix nitrogen into the soil that the plant can use from the air.  It is an early spring flowering weed that will benefit the early pollinators.  Leave it around your garden area.  If it is too much, here are some resources to help deal with clover.
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/White%20Clover.pdf
​
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=m650
​

Chickweed is another very common winter annual weed.  They germinate in the fall and overwinter.  In the spring they become noticeable with excess growth.  There are two chickweed species in our area, common chickweed and mouse ear chickweed.  Both grow low to the ground and have small, oval leaves with tiny hairs that are oppositely arranged around the stem.  The mouse ear chickweed has more hairs on the leaves and really look like mouse ears.  Chickweed is best controlled in the fall.  It has a shallow root system that is easy to pull in the spring. 
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Henbit%20and%20Chickweed.pdf
​
https://weedid.missouri.edu/weedinfo.cfm?weed_id=280