​Resist the temptation to work any soil if it is wet. Doing so destroys the structure of the soil resulting in clods that may not break down all summer. To determine if a soil is too wet to work, grab a handful and squeeze. If water comes out, it is much too wet. Even if no water drips out, it still may not be dry enough to work. Push a finger into the soil you squeezed. If it crumbles, it is dry enough, but if your finger just leaves an indentation, more time is needed. Be sure to take your handfuls of soil from the depth you plan to work the soil because deeper soils may contain more moisture than the surface. If there is a small area that you wish to plant in a few weeks and it much too wet to work, try tarping the area during wet weather and uncovering when it is dry. This will allow the soil to dry enough to work by the time you are ready to plant. 

​Information above was from taken K-State publications and newsletters.  If you would like full links, I would be happy to send them to you!

Cabbage 
Collards
Broccoli
Cauliflower

Eggplant
Peppers
Tomatoes
Rosemary

Thyme
Basil- if only wanting 1 plant---if wanting a lot for pesto, using seeds will be much cheaper
Oregano
Sage

Head Lettuce
 
 
 

Beets
Beans
Chard
Cucumbers

Carrots
Melons
Leaf Lettuce  or Greens
Okra

Radish
Pumpkins/Squash
Peas
Spinach

Sweet Corn
Turnips
Dill
Cilantro
​

Tomatoes—For best production of beefsteak/slicing tomatoes allow 4ft2 per plant and use a tomato cage.   The raised bed can hold a max of 6 tomato plants arranged throughout the bed.    Crowding tomatoes will result in poor air flow and more disease susceptibility. 
For cherry tomatoes, a cage is recommended and generally 1-2 plants will produce plenty for the family.   Tomatoes will need to be picked every other day or so.

Peppers--Plant each 2ft apart and use a smaller tomato cage to keep fruit off the ground and to reduce summer wind damage.

Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage & Collards--Plant each 2ft apart and allow 4ft2 per plant

Potatoes--Potatoes should be planted in mid to late March.   Space 5 potato plants in a 16ft2 area.   Potatoes need to be “hilled” throughout the growing season, so additional compost or soil will be needed.

Cucumbers—Plant 2ft apart and allow 4ft2 for each plant.   Suggest getting dwarf types so vines don’t take over other things.  Vines can be trellised, but will need some training.
​
Green Beans, Peas(dwarf), Lettuce, Spinach, Carrots, Radish, Onion, Kale, Chard, Mustard, Beets, Turnips
Instead of planting in rows, plant following spacing between seeds listed on seed packet in a checkerboard pattern to maximize space.

​Raised Bed Gardening Things to Consider
Size of raised beds:  4’ x 12’

1.  Plan based on what your garden goal is
   1. Grow favorite fresh vegetables, herbs to eat
   2. Grow something you can’t readily find at grocery or is expensive to buy
   3. Grow something to freeze or preserve for the future
   4. Grow something beautiful or as a habitat for butterflies,  or your enjoyment, etc
2. Raised beds dry out faster in the summer than in ground plots.   Success will require you to attend the raised bed more than once a week.  A mix of topsoil and compost will help retain more moisture while still having beneficial drainage.
3. If you plan to intensively garden your raised bed, adequate fertilization throughout the season will be needed.
4. Prioritize desired vegetables to grow.  Most spring planted greens and vegetables will be in full production when summer vegetables should be planted.   Leave space accordingly.

Tips for some common planted vegetables
Tomatoes—For best production of beefsteak/slicing tomatoes allow 4ft2 per plant and use a tomato cage.   The raised bed can hold a max of 6 tomato plants arranged throughout the bed.    Crowding tomatoes will result in poor air flow and more disease susceptibility. 

Onions

• If you wish to grow large onions, choose an intermediate type such as Candy, Red Candy Apple or Super Star. 
• Onion plants are often found in bundles.   Before planting, place the root ends in water to stimulate the planting.
• Transplants should be planted 1.5-2" deep and at least a hand width apart or approx 4" apart
• Onions have shallow root systems and need good, even moisture and adequate fertilizer to develop large bulbs.  We will discuss fertilizer in upcoming emails.
• Onions do not compete with weeds very well.  Keep the area weeded to reduce competition. 
• Onions have shallow root systems so water once per week if no rain. 
• Onions should be ready for harvest around the first half of July. 

Green Onions

• Use "sets" or what look like little onion bulbs to produce green onions, which take 30-45 days until harvest depending on the weather.
• Plant with pointed end up approx 1-2" deep, spaced about 1" or 2 finger widths apart.   My preferred method is to set the bulb in the soil with tops pointed up and then once all are planted, cover with compost until they are no longer seen. 
• Onions have shallow root systems and benefit from good even moisture from light watering a couple times a week.

​
Information above was from taken K-State publications and newsletters.  If you would like full links, I would be happy to send them to you!

​Potatoes

• Buy certified seed potatoes as they are disease free and have plenty of starch to sprout.   Seed potatoes can be found at most nurseries, and even garden centers in big box stores
• Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces that weigh at least 2-3 oz.  Small potatoes can be planted whole without being cut.   Each piece should have at least one "eye" or sprouting/growing point.   It's okay if they are small eyes.  Cut potatoes need to lay in a single layer on a tray and allowed to dry 4-7 days before planting.  This will allow the cut side(s) to harden or suberize.   Potatoes should not be freshly cut or wet when planting or you have a greater chance of it rotting.
• Plant 1-2 inches deep, about 8-12" apart.   
• Potatoes are slow to emerge and take several weeks.  Be patient.  Emergence is dependent on soil temperature, potato variety and growing conditions.  
• We will discuss potato care in upcoming emails as well as how to "hill" potatoes later in the spring.

​Information above was from taken K-State publications and newsletters.  If you would like full links, I would be happy to send them to you!

​Peas

• Plant peas now through early April.  They like to be in a colder soil.   
• Plant seed 2-4 inches apart with rows 6" inches apart. Peas usually do best where 2-3 rows can be planted 4-6 inches apart to allow the weak spindly vines to support each other. 
• Peas prefer cool soil and need water during stress periods. They grow best in moderate to well-fertilized soil. A trellis may be needed to support the flimsy vines; short wire mesh or string trellis works well.

Let me know if you have any questions.  Information above was from taken K-State publications and newsletters.  If you would like full links, I would be happy to send them to you!

Japanese beetles have become one of the most detested insects of all time.  They are indiscriminate and feed on a multitude of vegetables, ornamentals, trees, and plants.  A lot of research is being conducted to combat these gregarious feeding insects.  There are options for control that depend on the plant being attacked, the amount of infestation and your level of time.   Note there are many websites that have the answer/product/cure/trap for Japanese beetles.  When researching online, find a trusted source, such as .edu or .gov or .org, that has actual research and not just anecdotal evidence.   Here are a couple of sources I have found to be updated on a timely basis and filled with fact-based information.
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Japanese%20Beetles.pdf

https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/japanese-beetle-5-601/
​
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/beetles/japanese-beetle.aspx

Two diseases that attack tomatoes early in the growing season around blossom set are Early Blight and Septoria.  Both start on lower leaves of the plant and result in leaf spots that may eventually kill the leaf. Defoliation of the plant is harmful and also leads to sunscalded fruit.  Disease development is favored by warm temperatures, abundant rainfall and high humidity.  Mulching, caging, no overhead watering and good air flow are helpful to reduce disease pressures. To learn more about these early tomato diseases, here are articles from K-State Research and Extension and University of Minnesota.

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Early%20Blight%20of%20Tomatoes.pdf

https://extension.umn.edu/diseases/early-blight-tomato

​http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/fungal-spots/septoria-leaf-spot-of-tomato.aspx