
Information above was from taken K-State publications and newsletters. If you would like full links, I would be happy to send them to you!
![]() Resist the temptation to work any soil if it is wet. Doing so destroys the structure of the soil resulting in clods that may not break down all summer. To determine if a soil is too wet to work, grab a handful and squeeze. If water comes out, it is much too wet. Even if no water drips out, it still may not be dry enough to work. Push a finger into the soil you squeezed. If it crumbles, it is dry enough, but if your finger just leaves an indentation, more time is needed. Be sure to take your handfuls of soil from the depth you plan to work the soil because deeper soils may contain more moisture than the surface. If there is a small area that you wish to plant in a few weeks and it much too wet to work, try tarping the area during wet weather and uncovering when it is dry. This will allow the soil to dry enough to work by the time you are ready to plant. Information above was from taken K-State publications and newsletters. If you would like full links, I would be happy to send them to you!
0 Comments
Cabbage
Collards Broccoli Cauliflower Eggplant Peppers Tomatoes Rosemary Thyme Basil- if only wanting 1 plant---if wanting a lot for pesto, using seeds will be much cheaper Oregano Sage Head Lettuce Beets
Beans Chard Cucumbers Carrots Melons Leaf Lettuce or Greens Okra Radish Pumpkins/Squash Peas Spinach Sweet Corn Turnips Dill Cilantro Tomatoes—For best production of beefsteak/slicing tomatoes allow 4ft2 per plant and use a tomato cage. The raised bed can hold a max of 6 tomato plants arranged throughout the bed. Crowding tomatoes will result in poor air flow and more disease susceptibility.
For cherry tomatoes, a cage is recommended and generally 1-2 plants will produce plenty for the family. Tomatoes will need to be picked every other day or so. Peppers--Plant each 2ft apart and use a smaller tomato cage to keep fruit off the ground and to reduce summer wind damage. Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage & Collards--Plant each 2ft apart and allow 4ft2 per plant Potatoes--Potatoes should be planted in mid to late March. Space 5 potato plants in a 16ft2 area. Potatoes need to be “hilled” throughout the growing season, so additional compost or soil will be needed. Cucumbers—Plant 2ft apart and allow 4ft2 for each plant. Suggest getting dwarf types so vines don’t take over other things. Vines can be trellised, but will need some training. Green Beans, Peas(dwarf), Lettuce, Spinach, Carrots, Radish, Onion, Kale, Chard, Mustard, Beets, Turnips Instead of planting in rows, plant following spacing between seeds listed on seed packet in a checkerboard pattern to maximize space. Raised Bed Gardening Things to Consider
Size of raised beds: 4’ x 12’
Tomatoes—For best production of beefsteak/slicing tomatoes allow 4ft2 per plant and use a tomato cage. The raised bed can hold a max of 6 tomato plants arranged throughout the bed. Crowding tomatoes will result in poor air flow and more disease susceptibility. Onions
Information above was from taken K-State publications and newsletters. If you would like full links, I would be happy to send them to you! Potatoes
Peas
Let me know if you have any questions. Information above was from taken K-State publications and newsletters. If you would like full links, I would be happy to send them to you! Japanese beetles have become one of the most detested insects of all time. They are indiscriminate and feed on a multitude of vegetables, ornamentals, trees, and plants. A lot of research is being conducted to combat these gregarious feeding insects. There are options for control that depend on the plant being attacked, the amount of infestation and your level of time. Note there are many websites that have the answer/product/cure/trap for Japanese beetles. When researching online, find a trusted source, such as .edu or .gov or .org, that has actual research and not just anecdotal evidence. Here are a couple of sources I have found to be updated on a timely basis and filled with fact-based information.
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Japanese%20Beetles.pdf https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/japanese-beetle-5-601/ http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/beetles/japanese-beetle.aspx Two diseases that attack tomatoes early in the growing season around blossom set are Early Blight and Septoria. Both start on lower leaves of the plant and result in leaf spots that may eventually kill the leaf. Defoliation of the plant is harmful and also leads to sunscalded fruit. Disease development is favored by warm temperatures, abundant rainfall and high humidity. Mulching, caging, no overhead watering and good air flow are helpful to reduce disease pressures. To learn more about these early tomato diseases, here are articles from K-State Research and Extension and University of Minnesota.
https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Early%20Blight%20of%20Tomatoes.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/diseases/early-blight-tomato http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/fungal-spots/septoria-leaf-spot-of-tomato.aspx |
Tips, Info & pestsWe will share info for good garden practices as well as highlight garden weeds, insects, diseases and other crazy things you might see throughout the garden season. Archives
March 2022
Categories |