The bane of every gardener growing zucchini, squash, pumpkins and winter squash.  Egg masses are found on the underneath side of the plant leaf.  They can be squished with your finger to control the number that hatch.  Scouting the plants is the best way to keep the pest under control. Good garden sanitation is highly important to reduce the places and food sources for overwintering nymphs and adults.  Here are a couple of links from K-State Research and Extension & University of Minnesota with more information about squash bugs and control measures.

​https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Squash%20Bug.pdf

https://www.vegedge.umn.edu/pest-profiles/pests/squash-bug

These yellowish to orange beetles love to chew holes in green beans, peas and corn.  They have 4 spots on their wings and a black triangle at the top of their wing covers.  Bean leaf beetle numbers can be reduced with good garden sanitation and planting green beans later in May to avoid the overwintering adults emerging in the spring.  Here are some links from K-State Research and Extension and Missouri Botanical Garden with more information about bean leaf beetles.
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https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Bean%20Leaf%20Beetle.pdf
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http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/beetles/bean-leaf-beetle.aspx

Cucumber beetles can be either spotted or striped.  They like to feed at the base of newly emerged cucumber, melon, squash, pumpkin and other crops.  The actual damage to most plants doesn’t come from the adults feeding on the leaves.  The real damage is from a bacterial wilt that the beetles transmit plant to plant while feeding.  The bacteria reproduces and eventually the plant wilts and dies.  There is no cure for bacterial wilt, but some varieties have more tolerance to bacterial wilt.  Early control of cucumber beetles is key in reducing the opportunity of having bacterial wilt.  If you do plan to spray to control beetles, keep in mind that the bees are around to pollinate.  Spray early in the morning or later in the evening when they are not as active around plants.  “Eight” or permethrin is a much friendlier bee option than “Sevin” or carbaryl.  Here are links from K-State Research and Extension with detailed information about cucumber beetles and bacterial wilt.  

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Cucumber%20Beetles.pdf

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Bacterial%20Wilt.pdf

This is the adult squash vine borer that lays it’s eggs at the base of your favorite summer and winter squash, zucchini, pumpkins and gourd plants.  They hatch and eat their way inside the plant's stem where they are protected from predators.  They live there for several weeks until they get large enough and do enough damage.  Then one day your plant collapses and you are shocked.  Preventative measures are needed where SVB is present to protect your squash crop.  Here’s a link from K-State Research and Extension with detailed information about Squash Vine Borer.  If you do preventative spraying at the base of the plant, Eight (permethrin) would be what I’d recommend.

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Squash%20Vine%20Borer.pdf 

Here is another link for those who want to follow strictly organic practices.  https://articles.extension.org/pages/65684/biology-and-management-of-squash-vine-borer-in-organic-farming-systems
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Note, scouting for the eggs regularly will be critical to your success.